• stacio
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  • 2018-06-06
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The pattern cutting blog

Creative pattern cutting “to be able to make the designer’s vision come alive”

This is handy, as I am the designer and the creative pattern cutter, so my vision is easy to achieve.

There is an old saying that goes you can’t build a great building on bad foundations so the first pattern is vital to the finished garment, as this is the main part to see how to adapt the style and structure you desire. As I said, because it’s my design I know exactly where to shape and lengthen the pattern when I need to.

I draft in pencil in the style and then when every mark has been made from darts to knee and hip lines, I then pen so I can see the lines through another sheet of paper.

It’s quite a relaxing part of creating any garment. I am always fascinated by how a pattern can be transformed into a pair of Jeans! I have been making Jeans for around 10 Jeans, and have never tired from creating new and sometimes usual styles.

After the next sheet is applied, I draw out the pattern once more in the front and back, and make sure I have all the pieces drawn out too (i.e- back pockets and flyer pieces).

With every pattern you need to grade and make sure everything is still correct because an inch wrong at the beginning could end up been twice the size at the end. This will help with the lay out on the fabric, to know which way the fabric grains lay. This way you won’t have twists in the fabric and everything will flow the way it needs to (the way the design looks). And have a seam allowance around the edge (so you have another room for overlocking and sewing)

All cut out and ready for inspection…ready for the next chapter.

The example is a new pair of custom slim leg Jeans.   

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